Good Fit Guides | Jeans

Jeans

Regarding cut, the jeans should be slim in the thigh and straight or tapered from the knee down.

Go with your waist size and stick with straight leg or slimmer. Reduce down slightly on the waist size for a slimmer fit. The jeans will stretch.

When it comes to breaks due to gravity, most people don’t want more than a few, as shown. Some people aim for more breaks, this is called “stacking”. Ultimately the number of breaks is a matter of taste. Depending on the style of the jeans and rigidity of the denim, you can get away with bunching further up the leg. Since jeans are very versatile and can be fit with numerous styles, this varies.

Length can vary if you plan to have turn-ups on your jeans. Turn-ups can vary from 3-12cm depending on your style.

Good Fit Guides | Jackets

Jackets

About 2cm of shirt collar should be revealed by the jacket collar.

The shoulder seam should lie on the edge of your shoulder. The aim is to reduce the amount of buckling, as the shoulders should have no apparent wrinkles or divots while the arms are down at the sides.

Similarly to shirts, armholes must be sufficiently high, and alternatively should not be cutting into your armpit. The arms should move somewhat independently of the jacket during normal motions.

While buttoned, the jacket should not pull across the chest (fabric making an “X” shape across your abdomen). Similarly, it should not pull across the shoulders when arms are folded.

Holding your hand flat, you should easily be able to fit it inside the jacket under the lapels.

The jacket’s second button from the bottom should lie just above your belly-button, never below.

With your arms at your sides, the sleeves should cover the wrist bone.

If a jacket doesn’t fit your shape properly, sometimes the bottoms will flare out, a product of the jacket being too slim in the waist, so your hips push out the fabric.

A suit jacket’s length should always cover your backside

Good Fit Guides | Neckties

Neckties

A nice tie can bring a whole outfit together. They also allow you to easily diversify your wardrobe simply by mixing and matching ties with different shirts and suits. But ties are delicate. If you don’t take care of them, they can easily become worn and tattered. Instead of being a punctuation point to a sharp suit, an unkept tie will make you look bad. Here’s a short run down on how to care for your ties.

Untying your Ties

Care should be taken when removing your tie. After a long day of work, I know you probably just want to get the damn thing off. But fight the temptation to pull the thin end of the tie through the knot. While this is the easiest way to get your tie off, it ruins the shape of the tie in the process. If you want to make your ties last, remove your ties by following the tie-tying steps in reverse.

Storing Your Ties

When putting away a tie, many men roll them up, stuff them in a drawer, or lay them over a chair. But ties are made of delicate fabric and are extremely impressionable. So as soon as the tie comes off, drape it over a coat hanger. Hanging your ties properly makes it easier for the creases and folds from a knot to fall out.

A nice tie rack is a good investment. Tie racks make storing and organizing your ties much easier. Spend a little on a rack now, and save money in the long run by making your ties last.

When travelling, fold your ties into fours and place them in your jacket pocket. That will help maintain your ties’ shape while travelling.

“I think one of the reasons I’m popular again is because I’m wearing a tie. You have to be different.” — Tony Bennett

Cleaning Your Ties

A small stain can ruin any tie. Use care while eating with a tie on to avoid getting food on it. If you do stain your tie, take action quickly.

If you take your ties into a dry cleaner, specifically request that they don’t press your ties. Most dry cleaners do, but ironing a tie presses down on its rolled edges and ruins its shape.

Removing Wrinkles from Your Ties

As mentioned above, ironing ties should be avoided. But it’s inevitable that your ties will start to wrinkle. The best way to get the wrinkles out without ruining your tie in the process is using steam. For easy wrinkles, simply hanging your tie in the bathroom while you take a hot shower will do the trick.

Tie Pins

Tie pins are nice because they keep your tie in place and out of your food. However, tie pins leave holes in the fabric of your tie. To avoid these holes, insert the tie pin through the fabric keeper on the back and then through your shirt. No holes, but your tie will be kept in place.

Good Fit Guides | Socks

Socks

Wear dress socks with dress shoes

Don’t try to wear athletic socks with dress shoes even if the socks are black. Athletic socks are thicker than dress socks and don’t match the refined style of dress shoes. If you try wearing gym socks with a pair of dress shoes, they’ll bunch out over the shoe and look bad. Stick to dress socks. The thin material feels nice on your foot and looks sharp.

With jeans there’s a little more wriggle room. Preferably, you should have dark socks even with denim, but you can get away with wearing gymn socks with jeans.

Sock color should match your trousers, not your shoes

This is a rule that many people are confused about. We hear many different arguments about whether you should match socks with shoes or socks with trousers. You should always match socks with trousers because when you sit down and your socks are exposed, you want a solid line of colour from your trousers to your shoes. Socks that don’t match your trousers’ colour create a jarring break in your outfit. So black socks go with black trousers and brown socks go with brown trouser. Absolutely and under no condition should you ever wear white socks with dark trousers unless you want to look like a 1980’s Michael Jackson.

No socks with sandals or shorts

The weirdest thing is to see people who wear socks with sandals. Society’s ability to take you seriously will be drastically diminished if you do this. Sandals were designed to be worn with bare feet, so please, do not wear socks with sandals.

Socks with shorts should be avoided as well. Wearing socks with shorts visually makes your legs look shorter. If you need to wear socks while wearing shorts, invest in some ankle socks that aren’t visible when you wear you sneakers.

Novelty socks are for not for you!

No man should own a pair of orange novelty socks that say “Boo!” on them and are adorned with little bats. The only excuse you have for wearing these is if you’re a kiddies school teacher named Mrs Heart. Keep your sock collection simple and classic and you’ll never go wrong.

Good Fit Guides | Measuring

Measuring

Chest

You’ll notice the sizes for jackets will have numbers like 40L or 38R. That number comes from your chest measurement. Also, when you buy a dress shirt, you need to know your chest size.

How to measure your chest

  • Wrap the tape measure under your armpits, around the fullest part of your chest.
  • The measuring tape should be snug and not so tight that it constricts breathing, or so loose that it slides down.
  • Don’t puff out or flex your chest. Just stand normally.

The letter in off-the-shelf jacket measurements corresponds to your height. If you’re between 5’7′ and and 6′ you’re a Regular(R). If you’re between 6’1′-6’3 you’re a Long(L).

 

Neck

How to measure your neck

  • Wrap the tape measure around the lower part of your neck. It should be about an inch below your Adam’s Apple.
  • For a comfortable fit, place 2 fingers between the tape and your neck. Round up to the next 1/2″.

 

Sleeve

How to measure your sleeve length

  • Measure from the shoulder joint to the wrist bone.

 

Waist

How to measure your waist

  • Measure around your waist at about navel level.
  • Put a finger between your body and the tape measure to ensure maximum comfort.

 

Inside Leg

How to measure your inside leg

  • Remove your shoes.
  • Measure your inner leg from the lowest part of your crotch to your foot.

Shoe Size

There are ways to measure your feet at home, but the easiest way is to use the Brannock Device (that silver and black thing you see at shoe stores). Don’t just measure the length of your foot, but also the width. Measure your feet at the end of the day when they’ll be at their biggest and most swollen.

 

Hat Size

Hat sizes come in numbers like 7 and 7 3/4. To work out what your hat size is, you first need to measure your head in inches.

How to measure your hat size

  • Loop the tape measure around your head about an inch and a half above the ears. Write down the measurement.
  • Now convert your measurement into your appropriate hat size using this chart.

Cm/In
21/53
6⅝

Cm/In
21½/54

Cm/In
21⅞/55
6⅞

Cm/In
22⅛/56
7

Cm/In
22½/57
7⅛

Cm/In
23/58

Cm/In
23⅜/59
7⅜

Cm/In
23¾/60

Cm/In
24/61
7⅝

Cm/In
24½/62

Cm/In
25/63
7⅞